CELEBRATING 30 YEARS!1989 - 2019

Amish Poly Outdoor Furniture: Style Meets Strength & Sustainability

by Katie Eckelberry

What is Poly Outdoor Furniture?

When people hear the phrase “Amish furniture,” they often think of solid wood tables, benches, chairs, and more, all handcrafted with care and precision. Of course, having these associations is certainly not wrong, but these days, there is another material stepping into the Amish outdoor furniture scene: poly lumber.

Poly lumber is a fantastic outdoor building material that is composed of 90%-100% post-consumer recycled plastic content and is available in a wide range of colors. This lumber is manufactured within the USA through a four-step, quality-controlled process which removes any impurities from the recycled materials and ensures a uniform, durable product. The advantages of using this material are numerous and significant.

Poly Furniture Vs. Wood Furniture

Poly lumber can be worked and fashioned much as traditional wood lumber is, and it is available in several wood tones with an embossed wood grain to give the look and feel of wood, but there are a few vital differences between poly and wood that give our poly outdoor furniture an advantage over its wooden counterpart.

Due to its plastic composition, poly lumber is a much more malleable material than wood, allowing it to be shaped and molded into countless stylish designs that would be difficult or nearly impossible to achieve with a wood product. This flexibility also results in increased comfort as the material contours to your body in a way that wood simply cannot, and the use of recycled plastic materials rather than wood allows for a product which boasts tremendous strength and durability while remaining lightweight and easy to move.

Environmentally Friendly


If you’ve ever wondered what happens to all those milk jugs you toss in the recycling bin, wonder no more. Our supplier buys and recycles thousands of tons of consumer plastic waste every year to produce the high-quality poly lumber that is used by our local vendors. This process prevents massive amounts of non-biodegradable products from ending up in our landfills and oceans, and the end product is recyclable as well. When you purchase a piece of outdoor furniture crafted from poly materials, you are making a smart decision not only for your backyard but for the environment as well.

Maintenance Free

While the look of wood furniture is undeniably beautiful, keeping it looking good is no easy task and usually requires a fair amount of work on your part. With poly furniture, there’s no headache to be had because the need for routine maintenance is virtually non-existent. There is no sealing, no staining, no yearly upkeep required; just hose it down or give it a scrub with some soap and water when needed, and your chair, swing, bench, etc. is ready to go!

Durable and Weather Resistant

Wicked winters and scorching summers, downpours and droughts: you name the natural phenomenon, poly furniture can withstand it. Unlike wood, poly furniture does not naturally deteriorate over time; it is resistant to moisture, bugs, stains, warping, rot, mold, and many other common wood ailments. No pesky splinters to be had here! Even the hardware on each piece is designed to be corrosion-resistant and stand the test of both time and weather. An investment in a piece of poly furniture is an investment that will last for years to come.

Stabilized Color

It can be rather frustrating to watch as the wood of your outdoor furniture inevitably greys and fades with time and exposure to the elements, but the color pigments in our poly furniture are specially formulated to limit the breakdown of the particles due to sun and weather exposure. That means the vibrant color of your poly furniture is here to stay for years and years, and with so many color options available, the possibilities are endless!


Outdoor furniture made from poly lumber may not be your first thought when you think of Amish-built furniture, but it is an up-and-coming material with remarkable benefits, superior resilience, and reliable quality. If you have questions or would like to learn more about the poly furniture offered by Geitgey’s Amish Country Furnishings in Dublin, we invite you to call, click, or visit! Our team is here to help and would be happy to discuss our range of poly products with you.

Amish Leather Furniture: A Lesson In Quality

by Katie Eckelberry

Leather as a Material

Like most products, leather upholstery is available at many price points. However, this variation in price is a significant reflection of the quality of the product. As always, corners can be cut in construction--such as using no-sag springs instead of eight-way hand-tied springs--but these small construction differences cannot account entirely for the price variations. Rather, the price variations lie in the quality of the leather itself.

How to Identify Quality Leather Furniture

Obviously, the most important factor in determining the quality of leather upholstered furniture is determining the quality of the leather itself. You will often find that retailers advertise "All Leather" upholstery, but this is a misleading statement as leather is a generic term that refers to any tanned animal skin. The actual animal skin can be cow, buffalo, pig, etc., so it is not safe to assume that all leathers are created equal. Likewise, there are many methods of tanning and finishing available, so leathers can be remarkably different even if they are from the same animal species.

You will find that there is a tremendous difference in the appearance and texture of leathers from different animals. Cowhide is preferable for use in upholstery because it has the most desirable appearance and texture or "hand", which is a term often used to describe the feel of the leather. The grain of cowhide tends to be smooth, lending itself to a soft hand. Other animal hides are stiffer and coarser grained and, therefore, are not a desirable upholstery material. Often, inferior leather upholstery will be made of stiffer leathers such as a pig or water buffalo.

Now that you understand differences in leather obtained from different animals, you should know there can also be differences in the types of leather that are obtained from cows. The term cowhide refers to any leather made from cow skins, but there are variations in the quality of cowhides as well.

Top Grain Leather vs. Split Hides

When a cowhide is processed, the skin is removed in one layer. Later at the tannery, the outer layer of skin is separated from the layers of skin. It is shaved off and is usually 3/64" thick, about the thickness of a coin. This outer layer of skin is referred to as the "top grain" and the other layers of skin are referred to as "split hides".

The top grain is best suited to upholstery because it is the strongest and most durable part of the hide, yet it is soft and supple. In fact, top grain becomes more supple over the years and develops a soft patina. If properly cared for, top grain leather upholstery should last indefinitely.


The split hides are coarser and stiffer and tend to crack more easily. The average wearing time of split hides is 5 years. Split hides are better suited to the garment industry to make shoes, handbags, belts, etc. which are not expected to last more than a season or two.

Cheaper leather upholstery is often made of split hides instead of top grain leather. Manufacturers often use split hides as they are cheaper per square foot, and they offer a greater product yield than top grain leather. Because it is the outside layer of skin, top grain leather tends to have more scars and surface blemishes than split hides. An average cowhide is approximately 50 to 55 square feet, but only 70% of this area can be used from a top grain hide. However, since split hides have fewer flaws than top grain, 90% or more of the hide is suitable for use; there is much less waste per hide, only 10% or less, and thus a much greater yield per square foot. 

Obviously, the advantage of using split hides is the substantial savings in the cost of the leather; however, those savings are directly responsible for the poor quality and wearability of the leather. If you want leather upholstery that lasts, top grain leather is your best bet.

If you would like to learn more about the leather furniture offered by Geitgey’s Amish Country Furnishings in Dublin, we invite you to call, click, or visit.  We would be glad to show you our quality line of McKinley Leather furniture and their expansive selection of leather materials and answer any questions you may have!

Amish Wood Furniture: Determining Durability

by Katie Eckelberry

 Which woods and finishes are most durable?

We are frequently asked this question in the store and like so many things in life the answer is...it depends!

There are five main factors that determine how well the surfaces of your wood furniture from Geitgey's Amish Country Furnishings will wear:
1.  What is the hardness or density of the wood? The scientific name for this is "specific gravity."
2.  What is the grain texture of the wood?
3.  What stain color are you choosing for the wood?
4.  What is the finish treatment being used?
5.  What is the application of the piece of furniture?

Let's examine each of these items in order to help you make your best choice. Here are the domestic species of hardwoods that we offer in descending order of hardness: Hickory, Red Oak, Hard Maple, Walnut, White Elm, Cherry, Brown Maple. The hardness of the wood could matter when you have a surface that might get a repeated amount of physical abuse - like a tabletop or desktop that is exposed to lots of dropped or dragged items that would otherwise dent a softer wood more easily.

But the reality is that almost all woods can be dinged, dented, and scratched, so we feel it's even more important to consider the grain texture of the wood you are choosing because the texture is what will determine how well the wood can camouflage the inevitable ding, dent, or scratch. Coarse-grained woods like Oak and Hickory will do a much better job of hiding damage than finer grained woods like Brown Maple or Cherry. Oak and Hickory also tend to have a lot of "movement" or pattern in the wood that can also serve to hide scratches. Many of the fine-grained woods can be very glass-like and reflective, especially when placed underneath a pendant light or in front of a bay window as you would with a kitchen table, but while these are certainly beautiful woods, they will typically reveal more of the daily wear.

Also contributing to how well scratches and dings can be concealed is the color of the stain that is chosen for your furniture. Dark colors have been trendy and popular for some time now, but dark stains such as Onyx, Espresso, Rich Brown, and Java as well as black paint are bound to show scratches and dings more easily. Think of the analogy that a dark or black colored car is harder to keep clean than a lighter colored car. These dark stains will also require more frequent dusting and cleaning.

Considering the proper finish treatment is also important when choosing your furniture options. We are not necessarily talking about the type of finish here, as all of our furniture is already finished with a catalyzed conversion varnish which is a very durable finish (More information on this finish can be found in this short video: Conversion Varnish Video). What we really mean by treatment is whether the piece is finished "pristine" or "distressed."

Pristine is when a piece is stained or painted and then simply top-coated and left in a more or less flawless or unblemished state. Distressing occurs when we add tooling detail (dings, dents, faux powder-post beetle holes, edge sanding, etc.) that give the furniture the appearance of having some age and use. Distressing can take the anxiety out of the first ding you might inflict upon your furniture yourself and make the piece a more livable and relaxed addition to your home.

We also have the option on many of our species to use a "rustic" or "character" grading of the lumber that will allow for more knots, mineral inclusions, and imperfections in the wood than a select grade of the same species might allow. In addition, we can also use roughsawn or planking effects to further add to the character of a piece and to make it look like a well-loved part of the household.

Finally, consider the application of your furniture. Just because an interior designer on a television show said that you need a dark pedestal table with a high-gloss finish in your kitchen does not mean your four year old will respect that decision! Oily handprints and fork marks will win in the end. Know that furniture is fashion, yes, but furniture is also where your family gathers, eats, sleeps, works, and relaxes.

Considering all of the above factors when making your purchases of hardwood furniture will help to ensure you enjoy your furniture for many years to come.

As always, the staff at Geitgey's Amish Country Furnishings in Dublin is glad to help with questions related to this article or any other matter. Just call, email, or stop in anytime!

Quality Bedroom Furniture: What to Look For

by Katie Eckelberry
What to look for in quality bedroom furniture
So you're in the market for a new bedroom suite, and you want to make sure you buy a set with lasting quality, but what should you look for to ensure you're getting your money's worth? Here are a few handy tips for sorting the sturdy from the shoddy when it comes to bedroom furniture.
What To Look For
The first question you should ask is "What is the furniture made of?" The best materials will be solid hardwood. Don’t be fooled by a statement that a piece is made from "solid wood." The term "solid wood" is increasingly being used to refer to materials that may have wood as a major component but may also include other materials (glues, sawdust, etc). You want a piece crafted from solid hardwood, which means that it is made from lumber that came from the tree in board form. These boards may have been glued-up edge to edge to form a larger panel or used by themselves for smaller components. Ask the salesperson to be clear; if it’s not solid hardwood, then you may be settling for a less than ideal material.


The next area of concern should be the finish. Here’s a checklist of things to look for:

  • Is the entire piece stained or painted in all areas that are visible (i.e. inside edges of feet, etc.)

  • Are insides of drawers finished/sealed?

  • Make sure there are no rough areas that were either missed in the sanding or where dust/particulate has settled into the topcoat.

  • Check to make sure there are no stain runs where the stain leaked back out of corners and joint lines before it had dried.

  • Look for finish "sagging" where the clear topcoat finish has been applied too heavily or too quickly and the finish runs as it is drying.


Next, you'll want to focus on construction. Each type of bedroom furniture has some specific benchmarks it should check off.



Regardless of the size (King, Queen, Full or Twin), you want your bed to be made with quality and attention to detail:

  • Look for wood side rails, not metal. The gauge of metal frequently used in mass-manufactured beds can bend and flex. A wood side rail will be more sturdy.

  • Check that the rails are attached to the headboard and footboard with at least two bolts through a substantial bracket at each end of the rail.

  • Look for wood cross slats that are held in place where they meet the side rails. The slats should be dovetailed/keyed in place or have an index hole with a dowel that will not allow them to slide off the cleat on the rail.

  • For King size beds, and some queens, make sure there are center supports for the slats; this prevents the slats and therefore the mattress from sagging over time.

Case Goods

Whether it’s a dresser, chest of drawers, armoire, or nightstand, the same hallmarks of quality will apply:

  • Avoid furniture that has a single, center mount drawer slide. This will quickly break and cause the drawer to be an aggravation. Look for two slides - one on each side of the drawer or one on each bottom side of the drawer. Look for types that feature a ball-bearing or spring/piston system. Ask the salesperson to demonstrate to you how easy it is to remove and replace the drawers.

  • Check to make sure the drawers are dovetailed, front and back. Clarify that it's an English dovetail, not a French dovetail.  

  • Make sure that the decorative hardware is drilled properly - i.e. that the backside of the drawer or door face is not splintered out where the drill bit came through. Is the hardware placed appropriately and even?

  • If the piece has doors, check to make sure that the hinges are a type that allows for adjustment. For large doors, make sure that the hinges are heavy-duty enough and that there are the appropriate number and placement of hinges to keep the doors from sagging and not hanging level.

  • Speaking of level, larger case goods should have levelers that will allow you to make sure the piece sits level, even on an uneven floor. Allowing a case good to sit unleveled for years will permanently rack the frame and result in frustration with doors and drawers not working properly.


While this article is in no way a comprehensive quality checklist of what to look for when shopping for bedroom furniture, it can serve as a starting point to help you buy with confidence!  We’ll be honest and admit that we are a bit biased in believing that Amish-built furniture is superior to the mass-manufactured furniture offered by the big box stores. But if you’re looking to meet the aforementioned standards of outstanding quality and craftsmanship, Amish bedroom suites are the way to go. Handcrafted with care and precision, you can be sure that your Amish furniture is made to last and will look beautiful for years to come.

As always if you ever want to know more about the quality furniture available at Geitgey’s Amish Country Furnishings in Dublin please don’t hesitate to call, click, or visit. Our sales team is here to help and happy to answer any questions you may have!

Amish Furniture: Spring Cleaning

by Katie Eckelberry

The arrival of warmer weather here in Ohio inspires us all to engage in that annual rite: a little spring cleaning around the house. Your handmade Amish furniture from Geitgey's Amish Country Furnishings will benefit from a little spring TLC as well. Read on for a list of helpful hints on keeping your furniture beautiful and functional for years to come!

Outdoor Furniture

If you have purchased our poly lumber outdoor furniture then you have it pretty easy! We recommend an occasional power washing to remove dirt and build-up, then just check all hardware (screws, bolts, nuts) and tighten as necessary.

If you have wood outdoor furniture, we recommend that it be refinished every two years and touched-up every year. Wood outdoor furniture especially needs to have the hardware checked and tightened more frequently as the changes in temperature and humidity cause the wood to expand and contract and this will loosen hardware over time.


If you use your dining table every day you may eventually get a build-up of food and oils that needs to be removed. You can try using a cleaner like our Guardsman Cleaner to remove this build-up, or you can try another product. Just remember these tips: test in an inconspicuous area first, always apply the product to your rag first rather than directly to the furniture and wipe with the grain to avoid abrasions. These same tips apply when you polish your furniture as well. We recommend a polish that is free of wax or silicone so it will not build-up on your furniture (please check the label on your product). Guardsman Polish is an excellent choice for polishing all your hardwood furniture, and we sell a full line of the Guardsman products at the store.

If your table has leaves, it's a good time to open up the table and clean the inside edges of the table and any leaves where food or residue from spills may have run into the seams. You'll also want to clean out the expansion mechanism, whether a gear style or telescoping style, to keep it free of food debris; a vacuum cleaner wand may be good for this purpose so you can draw debris out of the grooves. When done, lightly wax the slides with paraffin wax (a bar of soap will also work) to keep the slides lubricated. Finally, check that the table is level with a bubble level and adjust the leveling feet on the bottoms of the feet as needed.


If your dining chairs are placed on hardwood and you use a felt or cork pad to protect the floor, now is a good time to check and see if any pads need replacing. Kids are especially hard on chairs with spills and residue (follow our advice under tables above regarding how to clean off food residue). Pay particular attention to the top crest rail and side posts of the chair where oils from hands are most likely to accumulate.

Check to see if the joints of your chair are coming loose anywhere; if so, it may be time to bring them to our service department to be re-glued. This is something that has to be redone periodically on all chairs and is critical for the integrity of the joinery and the longevity of the chair. We can advise if a complete or partial re-glue is necessary.

Case Goods (Dressers, Chests, TV Stands, Cabinets, etc.)

Check that these pieces are sitting level with a bubble level and adjust the leveling feet on the bottoms of the feet as needed. If no leveling feet are present, use wood or plastic shims that can be purchased at home improvement stores and cut or snapped to the appropriate length needed.

It is important for pieces with doors or drawers to sit level so that the doors will hang evenly and the drawers will track properly. Allowing a piece to sit out of level for an extended period of time can rack the frame permanently and compromise the integrity of how the piece functions and appears.


Check to make sure that your bed is square (i.e. that the rails or frame are at a right angle to the headboard and or footboard). The number one cause of a squeaky bed is a bed that has been knocked out of square by dragging it to one side when cleaning or moving it. This places the connecting hardware and end of the rail in a bind where it can rub and make for an annoying squeak.

Also, check to make sure that all connecting hardware is tight; tighten with a wrench or socket as necessary. Make sure that all slats are in place and laying flat so they can provide support and that any "center feet" that run from the underside of the slat to the floor are at a right angle to the slat and not turned askew from the bed being dragged sideways.

Mattresses and Box Springs

We recommend that if you have a flippable mattress (sleep deck on both sides of mattress) that you flip it every three months. The mattress should be alternated between flipping it both "end-for-end" and "side-over-side" to maintain the most even wear. If you have a "no flip" mattress (sleep deck on just one side) then you should just be rotating it "side-over-side" every three months. Box springs are usually built as "no flip" so just rotate them "side-over-side" as well. Inspect all tickings for any loose threads or seams or signs of a spring or edge wire coming through.

By the way, the average person probably keeps their mattress much longer than they should. If your mattress is older than 7-10 years, it may be time for a new one. Mattresses increase an average of 5-10 lbs. in weight with retained sweat, dust mites, etc., and while the spring systems will probably last as long as the warranty states, there will be a degradation of support prior to that. Got a backache or unexplained skin irritation? It just might be your mattress!

Upholstered Furniture (Sofas, Chairs, Ottomans, etc.)

Give your upholstered furniture a thorough vacuuming every month as well as an aggressive fluffing of the pillows and cushions. Back cushions may occasionally need to be taken out of their zippered cases to be fluffed and then reinserted and re-positioned within the casing. Check the undersides of the furniture periodically to see that the cambric cloth (usually black) or other lining material is intact and has not been pulled off by pets or roughhousing.

Also, check that any feet are solid and screwed into place as they can become dislodged or backed out with the movement of the piece across the floor. Treat any stains with a fabric spot cleaner and condition leather periodically with a leather conditioner/cleaner, but be sure to always test in an inconspicuous area first.

General cabinetry and furniture parts (doors, drawers, etc.)

Check doors and drawers to see if they are hanging level. If not, make sure the piece is level as indicated above. If a piece is level (or cabinet is a fixed built-in), check the door hinges to make sure all screws are tight. Most hinge styles also feature adjustment options that allow for a hinge position to be shifted slightly so that a door will close or hang better. Depending on the type of hinge this may manifest itself in the form of a slotted screw hole or an actual adjustment screw. Drawers should also be checked to see if they are level. Most drawer slides will have slotted holes that allow for small changes in the position of the drawer slide. If you have a drawer that drifts opens mysteriously, it is most likely caused by a cabinet that is not level and lists forward, an obstruction that has fallen behind the drawer, or a drawer slide that needs to be adjusted. Also, check all functional hardware (knobs, pulls) periodically and re-tighten as necessary.

Your busy household gives you no shortage of tasks to keep up with but taking the time to perform some of the above maintenance will keep your quality, Amish-crafted hardwood and upholstered furniture from Geitgey's Amish Country Furnishings looking and performing its best. 

Amish Upholstered Furniture: The Quality Within

by Katie Eckelberry

Identifying quality upholstered furniture

Upholstered furniture can be like a big question mark when it comes to determining how well it's made. Sure it looks great on the outside because it may have an appealing fabric and it seems to look OK, but what's on the inside?

Here at Geitgey's Amish Country Furnishings, we work hard to educate and help our clients be aware of what constitutes a quality piece of upholstered furniture. Whether it's comparing one of our new sofas or chairs to something else that is in the marketplace or trying to make a decision about whether it's worth reupholstering an older piece, let us walk you through the process to identifying quality.


This is the "bones" or skeleton of the piece and what you want to know here is if the frame is made from kiln-dried hardwood lumber. Much of today's value furniture is made with plywood framing, and this simply will not hold up. Hardwood frames will typically be made out of maple, oak, poplar, or birch. Ask the salesperson if the frame is hardwood, what species of wood was used, and if it has been kiln-dried to help reduce expansion and contraction due to moisture and temperature changes. Better yet, ask them if there is a cutaway sample available so you can see the construction for yourself.

Furthermore, ask about the joinery used to connect the framework. You want to know that the frame is screwed and glued and includes corner blocking; if the frame is stapled or pin-nailed it should probably be avoided. Sit in the furniture and exert some pressure on the back and arms by bracing your feet against the floor and pushing back with your back. Hear an excessive amount of cracking or feel too much give? Also, lift one end of the piece and try to flex it a little. A well-built frame should not flex or creak excessively during this test.

Finally, check the exposed wood details such as the feet. Where possible, it's best if they are integrated into the frame of the piece and glued and screwed. If it's a smaller detail, like a bun or spool foot, for example, make sure it is held in with a lag screw of the appropriate size, or several smaller screws and that it is made from hardwood. The ability to remove and reattach the feet may be handy when trying to get through a narrow door someday.

Springs and Support System

Think of these as the "muscles and tendons" of the furniture--just how strong are they? Check that the spring and support system is sufficient by performing these tests. Let yourself drop somewhat heavily into the sofa. Do you hear any excessive noise or a "thunk"? When you stay seated and bounce on the cushion do the springs return you to an elevated position each time or do they bottom out? When you place your hand under the cushion and press down are the springs adequately padded so that you cannot feel the metal?

We recommend eight-way hand-tied coil springs for the main deck as they offer the best weight distribution over the entire frame. Pieces that feature sinuous (also know as zig-zag) coil units for the main deck are more than likely not going to last as long. Sinuous coils are acceptable and common for the backs of most chairs, sofas and loveseats, however. Ask the salesperson about the type of spring system used or ask to read the manufacturer's literature.

Finally, check to make sure that the cushions are of high-density foam and that they are wrapped with a separate fabric layer to avoid direct contact between the foam and the main fabric which will accelerate the deterioration of the foam.

Fabrics and Leathers

And now for the "skin" of the furniture! Many clients ask us about leather vs. fabric and our answer is that leather is wonderful but will be more expensive for full-grain or top grain leathers, which we would recommend.  Less expensive leather furniture features leather that is known as "split," "recast," or "vinyl added" that will break down more quickly.  A quality leather on a loveseat, sofa or chair can possibly provide a lifetime of wear.

If fabric is more to your liking, just make sure that you are choosing a fabric that fits your lifestyle. Most better upholstery fabrics will be wear-rated for durability. Ask the salesperson to show you the wear-rating for the fabric. This is based on the blend of fabrics used, i.e. cotton, rayon, polyester, linen, etc.

Also, pay attention to the cleaning requirements for the fabric - whether a solvent or water should be used. For example, while cotton is great for that favorite worn pair of jeans, it may not be the best choice for a hard-used sofa due to its tendency to wrinkle and hold stains.

A final word about the fit and finish of your upholstery covering: pay special attention to the tailoring that is represented on the pieces you are considering ordering. Is care taken to make sure that pattern matching is done throughout the piece (i.e. arm panels match, the pattern continues over the backside of the piece and vertically spanning cushions, decks, backs, etc.). Is there any excessive puckering at corners, seams and welts that is not otherwise part of the design or fabric? Do the cushions feature zippers that allow you to remove the cores for easier cleaning and fluffing?

If you would like to know more, please feel free to call, email, or visit our store. At our store, we sell Rowe and Robin Bruce upholstery, as well as our Amish-made line of standard upholstery and our line of completely custom upholstered furniture that allows us to custom build frames to your specification. All are proudly made here in the US. We also offer reupholstering on select pieces, and we would be glad to discuss the feasibility and cost of your project with you.


No posts found

New post